90’s Makeup: How to Recreate the Authentic Mid-90s Editorial Look

90’s Makeup

There’s a reason why 90’s makeup keeps coming back. The lived-in skin, smudged eyes, barely-there lips, and that anti-glam, edgy vibe still feel fresh today. This look isn’t about trends—it’s about rebellion. And if you want to capture that mid-90s editorial energy, this is how it’s really done.

Forget glossy influencer versions. This is the raw, real, grungy look that was born from backstage shoots, underground music, and the reaction to the heavy contouring of the ‘80s. Think London. Think Seattle. Think minimal perfection with messy edges. Let’s get into it.

Why Mid-90s?

When you think of 90’s makeup, most people jump to supermodels or pop culture moments. But the real aesthetic of the decade started forming a few years in—around 1994. This was the heart of it. Not the start, when trends were still shifting from the 80s, and not the polished late-90s era. This was raw. This was editorial.

It was a time when makeup became a form of rebellion. Artists were tired of glam, of layers and shimmer, of contour and highlight. They wanted skin to look like skin. They wanted makeup to feel lived-in. And they wanted imperfection to be beautiful.

Starting with Skin: Light Coverage, Raw Texture

It always started with skin. No heavy full-coverage foundation. Instead, something sheer—just enough to even the tone, not erase it.

Mid-90s kits always included something like Embryolisse cream, a French pharmacy staple before it ever hit YouTube fame. It felt utilitarian, minimal, and perfect for the time.

Then came MAC Face & Body Foundation—a game-changer when it launched in 1994. It was lightweight, glossy, and applied with fingers. It gave coverage without making skin look like it was covered. It was all about showing skin texture, not masking it.

Even under-eye concealer wasn’t really a thing. Some artists would tap in more Face & Body under the eyes, and if there was darkness, they embraced it. A little shadow under the eyes made the whole face look more real. More modern. More alive.

For spots or blemishes, artists would use super-targeted coverage, like the Shu Uemura duo concealer—a secret weapon of the time. It gave full coverage but was only ever used sparingly, never to create a mask.

The Eyes: Smudged, Slept-In, and Lived-In

Now for the best part of 90’s makeup: the eyes. This wasn’t a cut crease. It wasn’t graphic liner. It was emotion in makeup form—messy, rebellious, sexy.

Artists would start with kohl pencil—the kind that smudged easily (because pencils back then weren’t longwear or waterproof like today’s). That softness actually helped create the look. It was applied under and over the lash line, but not precisely. Just a rough, imperfect sketch.

Then came the smudging. Not just a little blending, but full-on scrubbing with fingers or brushes. The more it moved around, the better it looked. Think three nights of eyeliner with no makeup remover. That’s what you’re going for.

Next came grease or balm. Makeup artists would add Vaseline, Eight Hour Cream, or anything with shine over the top. This made the shadow and liner melt into the skin. It also made the look glossy, raw, and a little bit sweaty—but in a cool way.

And yes, it creased. It was supposed to. Creases were a feature, not a flaw.

Some artists used colored greases—black, gray, even burgundy—to deepen the effect. Others tapped in balm at the inner corners or on the lid to catch the light. Either way, the result was never clean. It was always expressive.

Brows: Natural, Undone, Androgynous

Thin brows were in. But for those who didn’t pluck, there were still ways to play with the shape.

Some artists brushed brows up and down, intentionally messy. They’d sometimes apply Vaseline or balm to make them look boyish and undone. It wasn’t about perfection—it was about androgyny. A little weirdness. A little chaos.

Pencils were used lightly, just to fill gaps. No sharp arches, no laminated finish. Just enough to say, “Yeah, I have brows. So what?”

Lips: Brown, Burgundy, or Nothing at All

There were two routes for lips in the 90’s.

• The Statement Lip: A deep brown or burgundy shade was often paired with bare eyes or just a glossy lid. The texture was creamy or matte—sometimes with a smudged edge to keep it soft. Lip pencils were used, but never in that defined 2010s way. Just a rough outline.

• The Nothing Lip: A balm. A stain. Sometimes the same product used on the cheeks was tapped onto the lips for a monochromatic effect. And sometimes? Just bare lips. Maybe a touch of Vaseline, and that was it.

It all came down to balance. If the eyes were heavy, the lips were quiet. If the lips were loud, the eyes were barely there.

Cheeks: Dirty, Smudgy, and Barely There

Blush in the 90’s makeup era wasn’t pink and perky. It was muted. Think brick, plum, or brown—smudged high on the cheekbone or even just under.

Artists would sometimes apply it underneath foundation to give it a blurred effect, especially if the model had blemishes. It wasn’t supposed to look like blush. It was supposed to look like skin, like a shadow, like warmth.

Highlighting (Without Highlighter)

This was pre-strobing, pre-glow kits. But that didn’t mean there was no shine.

Artists used Vaseline or Eight Hour Cream to tap light into the skin. Tops of cheekbones, bridge of the nose, even eyelids. It wasn’t sparkle—it was sheen. It was moisture. It was skin.

Mascara and Lashes: Grungy, Not Pretty

Mascara wasn’t about fluttery lashes. Sometimes it wasn’t used at all. When it was, it was concentrated at the roots, not the tips. It created shadow and weight, not length.

In some looks, artists added clumpy mascara for a messy effect. But never with a heavy eye. It was always a choice: a smudgy eye, or a spidery lash—not both.

90’s Makeup Final Touch: The Imperfection

The best part about 90’s makeup? It wasn’t afraid to be imperfect.

Artists would rub eyes. Smudge liner again before a shoot. Let makeup crease and shift. It was the opposite of clean beauty. It was messy, emotional, and real.

Some artists would tap product randomly onto the nose, cheeks, or even temples—just to give the look more character. The face told a story. Not just of beauty—but of rebellion.

Recap: 90’s Makeup, Step by Step

• Skin: Use lightweight foundation (MAC Face & Body), apply with fingers
• Concealer: Target only spots or blemishes; keep under eyes slightly dark
• Eyes: Smudge kohl pencil on top & bottom lashes; blend with balm or Vaseline
• Brows: Keep natural, messy; brush one up, one down for androgyny
• Lips: Use burgundy, brown, or no lip at all—dab on stain or balm
• Cheeks: Apply muted blush under foundation or lightly over top
• Highlight: Tap Vaseline or balm on cheekbones and lids
• Mascara: Use sparingly or skip; focus on the roots only

90’s Makeup Final Thoughts

The true magic of 90’s makeup is in the contradiction. It was minimal, but dramatic. Simple, but powerful. Clean skin, messy eyes. And it didn’t try too hard.

If you’re over the overdrawn brows, the sculpted cheeks, and the “Instagram face,” then maybe it’s time to go back to the 90s—where eyeliner was smudged, blush was brown, and everything was a little undone.

Because sometimes the most iconic looks aren’t about perfection. They’re about letting go.