90’s Makeup: The Real Grunge Beauty Look That Defined an Era
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Hey everyone! Today, we’re rewinding to one of the most rebellious and expressive decades in beauty history: the 90’s makeup era. But instead of the polished, mainstream looks you might expect, we’re diving into something far more raw and authentic—a true mid-90s editorial makeup look. Think lived-in liner, greasy lids, minimal base, and that effortlessly undone vibe that defined the era of grunge.
This look is inspired by what was really happening backstage in London and New York around 1994. It’s gritty, it’s edgy, and it’s a direct rejection of the overly glam styles that came before. Ready to explore the world of 90’s makeup in all its moody, smudgy glory? Let’s get into it.
Why 90’s Makeup Was More Than a Trend
Before we touch a single brush or pencil, let’s talk about why this aesthetic became such a defining moment in beauty history. In the late 80s and early 90s, everything was about high glamour—colorful blush, bright lipstick, big hair, and contouring. But like every generation, the next wave wanted something new. Something real.
The 90’s makeup revolution wasn’t about being flawless—it was about being fearless. Influenced by political shifts, recession, and the rise of grunge music in Seattle and London, the new makeup direction was lived-in, raw, youthful, and androgynous. And artists like Kevin Aucoin were at the center of it all, first setting trends with supermodel glam, then inspiring the grunge backlash.
How to Prep Your Skin for a 90’s Makeup Look
Authentic 90’s makeup didn’t start with a 10-step skincare routine. In fact, it leaned toward utilitarian and minimalist products. Makeup artists swore by French pharmacy staples like Embryolisse cream—hydrating, basic, and perfect for prepping skin without the frills.
The idea was to support the skin, not cover it. This wasn’t about glowy primers or heavy moisturizers—it was about raw, bare skin with just enough hydration to keep it balanced.
The Best Foundation Style for 90’s Makeup
In the early 90s, matte foundation ruled. But by 1994, that was shifting fast. Makeup artists craved products that let the skin breathe. Enter MAC Face & Body, launched just in time to support the aesthetic of the moment.
This foundation offered sheer coverage that looked like real skin. Applied with fingers, it blurred imperfections without masking anything. Even under-eye concealing was minimal, sometimes skipped entirely to let natural darkness add dimension and edge.
Pro Tip: Use foundation sparingly. Let freckles, texture, and shadows show through—that’s the beauty of 90’s makeup.
Where to Apply Concealer Like a 90’s Pro
Instead of bright under-eyes and heavy layers, artists used concealer only where needed. The holy grail? The Inoui duo concealer (created by Kevin Aucoin and exclusive to Japan at the time).
Because it wasn’t widely accessible, artists often subbed in products like the DermaBlend palette or Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage. The goal was to cover blemishes and spots with precision—no cakey under-eyes here.
To highlight without shimmer or coverage, Touche Éclat by YSL was a must. Just a few light taps on key areas—done.
How to Get the Iconic 90’s Eye Makeup Look
If there’s one thing that screams 90’s makeup, it’s the eye look. This wasn’t about clean lines or crisp cut creases. It was messy, lived-in, and rebellious.
Start with a creamy kohl pencil—not the long-wear kind we have today. You want something that moves and smudges easily. Apply it roughly to the upper and lower lash lines, especially the outer and inner corners.
Then? Smudge. Smudge like your life depends on it.
Why Greasy Eyelids Were Totally On-Trend
After laying down your pencil, it’s time to get greasy—literally. Artists used Vaseline, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, or even Kryolan grease palettes to add gloss and texture.
Glossy lids weren’t supposed to be neat. They creased, they moved, and they were meant to look like you’d been out all night. It added a rawness and reality to the eye that no powder shadow could replicate.
Some artists loved Stefan Marais’ cream colors (launched post-2000s but based on 90s kits), and brands like Stila and Bobbi Brown offered burgundy and dirty-red tones perfect for layering.
Choosing the Right Blush for a 90’s Makeup Look
Forget your fresh pinks and coral peaches. 90’s makeup blush was earthy, sometimes even burgundy. It was blended in like a shadow, not a pop.
Sometimes, artists would apply blush before foundation—especially on models with acne—so that it peeks through, almost like a natural flush. Vaseline or balm mixed with cream blush created that dewy, smudgy look.
It wasn’t about looking “blushy.” It was about looking real.
Authentic 90’s Brows: How to Nail the Look
Okay, let’s talk brows—and yes, this is where the commitment gets real.
90’s makeup brows were thin. Like, “overplucked on purpose” thin. In this recreation, the brows weren’t fully committed to (no plucking!), but still captured the spirit: undone, slightly disheveled, and brushed with Vaseline for that boyish texture.
Pro artists even brushed some brow hairs up, some down—intentionally imperfect to avoid anything too “pretty.” It was about androgyny, rebellion, and nonchalance.
How to Apply Mascara Like a True 90’s Girl
Lashes were either skipped entirely or only defined at the root. Sometimes mascara was clumpy and bold—but never paired with a smokey eye. It was all about balance.
For this look, only a touch of mascara was applied at the roots to keep it rough and authentic. You’re not going for fluttery or flirty. You’re going for slept-in and smudged.
What Lip Colors Defined 90’s Makeup?
There were two directions here:
- The Bare Lip: Just balm or a faint dab of blush smudged onto the lips—literally using fingers to stain the mouth slightly.
- The Dark Lip: A rich brown or deep burgundy, slightly imperfect. Lip liner was still used, but not for overdrawn shapes—just to keep the look from bleeding.
Pro Tip: Lip color often doubled as cheek color, and sometimes it was even dabbed on eyelids for a monochromatic, editorial feel.
Forget Highlighter—Try This 90’s Shine Trick Instead
“Highlighting” in 90’s makeup wasn’t shimmer or glow—it was shine. Artists used gloss, balm, and Vaseline to reflect light naturally.
A tap on the cheekbone, nose bridge, or even the brow bone with 8 Hour Cream or Jones Road Miracle Balm added just enough texture without making it glam.
This shine wasn’t pretty—it was raw. It looked like skin, not product.
Finishing Touches for the Perfect 90’s Makeup Vibe
To control some of the chaos, artists might powder under the eyes or on the nose. But never to matte down the whole face. The goal was to manage, not perfect.
And for contour? Maybe. If needed, it was done with concealer or foundation sticks—nothing bronzy or orange. Subtle shadows only.
Your Full 90’s Makeup Routine Recap
Here’s your cheat sheet to recreate this 90’s makeup editorial masterpiece:
- Skin: Minimal base, spot concealing only
- Foundation: MAC Face & Body or any sheer formula
- Concealer: Only where absolutely needed
- Blush: Dirty burgundy tones, blended into balm or Vaseline
- Eyes:
- Creamy kohl pencil smudged
- Greasy/glossy lids using balm
- Optional mascara at roots only
- Brows: Thin or brushed, with Vaseline for texture
- Lips: Either dark brown/burgundy or balmy and bare
- Highlighting: Tap of balm on high points
- Contour: Barely there—foundation sticks or concealer only
Why 90’s Makeup Still Inspires Beauty Trends Today
What makes 90’s makeup so iconic is that it wasn’t trying to be perfect. It was rebellious. It made a statement. It threw out the rulebook and said: “This is me.”
Even now, as trends cycle back and TikTok dives into indie aesthetics, you can feel the influence of 90’s makeup. The smudgy liner, the undone vibe, the glossy lids—it’s all still here, just with a new twist.
This editorial look captures the soul of the 90s. It’s raw, real, and rooted in expression over perfection. And honestly? It might just be the most refreshing beauty trend to come back around.
Let’s keep rejecting the old rules. Smudge that liner. Dab on some balm. And celebrate makeup that looks like you.
